Showing posts with label Beijing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Beijing. Show all posts

Thursday, August 1, 2013

The Forbidden City is Not a Cool Place: Pagodas, Parks, and Recreation

This was a busy weekend, probably because this past week following our long trip was surprisingly light in terms of work. The realization that I only have three weeks left at PIB before returning to the states and Yale (note PIB ends relatively late compared to other programs) has sparked somewhat frantic sightseeing around Beijing. PIB tends to avoid the standard tourist sights in Beijing, so it's largely up to you to see things like The Forbidden City, Temple of Heaven Park, the Summer Palace, 等等。But first, we decided to visit the Beijing Language University 北京语言大学 to visit a few friends and see how the other half lives.

My friend Rain (Zhengkuan) organized the meetup, and I discovered for the first time the mystical 331 bus line (at least I think it was 331) that goes straight up to HBA. (Incidentally, the next stop on that line is Wudaokou 五道口, but more on that later).
This place had free watermelon so of course I ate like 30 slices.

We ended up eating some nice hotpot with some nice Harvard students (that other cultural exchange). Apparently, half of PIB was eating dinner at Pyro Pizza, which is the restaurant a floor below where we ate, though we didn't run into anybody. 

Afterward, while standing around the entrance of a club deciding what to do for the rest of the night, I met this surprisingly nice bouncer. He was like, "Of course entry is free! Yeah no cover until 5AM. You guys look around; come back if you want." Right now I much prefer Wudaokou to Sanlitun / Houhai (if you're looking for nightlife-ish things), since it's really geared more toward students (especially in terms of prices).
There was also this aptly-named coffee shop. Supposedly, the ridiculously 
high prices for drinks reflects the fact that these places are often used 
as dating locations where the guy can't come off as stingy.
As a side note I love the "+" after "twosome"

The place we eventually went to (Wu club) was quite good and not at all sketchy (which I guess is my standard for stuff like this). There was this Peking University student hanging around us asking all the Harvard and Yale kids for their phone numbers. I don't think any of us really knew much about masters/phD programs though.
Innocuous glowing red bar or ingenious solution for masking Asian glow? (click here for science)

Though many students might not consider Wudaokou a worthy way to spend their precious moments in China, I find that it's actually a good way to spend time in good company and listen to some really loud (western) music in a Beijing environment. After all, "must-go" tourist sites aren't always that great.
The sky was pretty cool that day though.

It was blistering hot the day we went to see the Forbidden City, which by Beijing standards is pretty average. The actual Forbidden City (故宫) was, in my opinion, not super-impressive either. To be fair, I've been there before when I was little. Visiting for the second time, I realized why my memories of the place are so sparse - the buildings are essentially all the same, exaggerated wooden structures glazed in red with golden roofs. The actual rooms are mostly empty, since the KMT ran off with most of the things - so most of it's in Taiwan.
Typical Gugong

The expansive squares and maze-like corridors between the smaller buildings on the side are worth a look if you've never been before - but be sure to go early. It opens at 8, and although we got there at 9, there were still quite a few visitors. Around 10/11, the crowd became absolutely ridiculous. A good chengyu to describe this is 人山人海 ("people mountain people sea").
The garden near the exit of Gugong. +1 Majestic pigeon

A good part of the non-central area was closed off that day, and we mostly just kept moving forward through the complex, which I would recommend given the traffic.
Jingshan 景山 park borders Gugong to the north, and I would recommend a visit if you decide to see Gugong, since the entrance to the park is one under-highway passage away from the exit of the Forbidden City.
Generic flower photo

Jingshan is great if you're like me and prefer green to shiny red and gold paint. Potted bonsai trees, lotus flowers, and an array of tree-lined trails up a steep hill compose this small-ish, pleasant area. You'll find elderly folks dancing in sync in the shade, and tourists clustered in the temple at the top of the hill, snapping pictures of the Forbidden City below. Its was the best view of Beijing I've had in my limited experience here.
Group dance activities: a common sight in China's parks
A photo from the top of Jingshan. Gugong kinda feels like Beijing's 
Central Park from up there

The west exit to Jingshan leads straight to the southern gate of Beihai park, where we didn't spent all that much time since some of us were really freaking tired, and the sun was beating down, etc. There was a great breeze by the expansive lake, lined with willow trees and filled with people operating all manner of boats (including this weird circular lotus flower thing). 
Beihai Park

Beihai's great, but don't pay to see the cave. Nothing but a small passageway lined with cheesy statues. It was actually surprising how bad it was.

Another PIB excursion that's worth mentioning is the Silver Mountain Pagoda Forest (Yinshantalin) 银山塔林 in the rural outskirts of Beijing. Things that this place offered for us that day included: rural Beijing food (not much different from regular Beijing food), an impressive array of Jin Dynasty towers, and a mountain (Silver Mountain) with a large bell you can ring.

Not pictured: horde of students yelling about how these chickens are crossing this road

That Saturday was rainy and humid. The mood of the towers, looking all stoic in the mist, stood in stark contrast to the horde of PIB students snapping pictures.
茄子!(Chinese equivalent of "cheese")

The mountain itself was a decent climb. On the way up, our group walked past a couple of girls carrying this big, Costco case of soda. Every few steps bottles would fall out of the plastic enclosure, and both girls would stop to pick them up. It felt weird to hear them chatting and laughing, dragging that thing up the slope, as we stepped around them like a parade of ghosts.
Indiana Jones-y kind of

Despite the recent rain, the waterfall along the way was depressingly dried up. We arrived sweaty to the platform with the bell other students had been ringing before. It was too foggy to photograph the view. That said there's something very appropriate about fog and mountains in China. At the base of the mountain, a small group of elderly ladies in clear competition with each other were selling ice cream, dried fruit, and water. I bought a green-bean ice cream bar for 3kuai and stood there talking and wondering how street vendors manage to keep these things from melting in their garbage bag lined cardboard boxes. Maybe one day I'll ask.

Sunday, July 21, 2013

07-21-13 | PIB Mid-Term Break - A Trip to Chengde

After an intense first semester and a 4-hour long final exam, 10 PIB students filed onto a train at Beijing Station to Chengde (承德), a small city north-east of Beijing where China's last dynasty of emperors spent their summer vacations in a mountain resort (bishushanzhuang) and held meetings with neighboring countries.

PIB gives all students a 3-4 day long weekend between the first and last four weeks to relax and see some China outside of Beijing. The trips are all planned by the students themselves, unlike Harvard's program which I believe offers week-long "social study" projects to various set locations. Though a bit short, PIB's break allows students to freely explore places like Shanghai, Qingdao, Xi'an, Datong, and Chengde.
--
The view from one of the platforms at Puning Temple
Our group spent two days in Chengde, arriving Friday afternoon and leaving Sunday morning. We stayed at the very nice not-so-expensive (only) hostel in Chengde, whose owner picked us up from the train station and gave us a map and recommendations on what to do in the city.
Our group spinning prayer wheels, which in Tibetan Buddhism
has the same effect as saying the inscribed prayer. These
also included helpful arrows to help those of us who don't read
Sanskrit spin them in the right direction.
We were a little dubious of this elephant's eyes
The inside of Puning Temple, with a stage for entertaining
visitors. I keep thinking those things are clotheslines
The view from the top of the Red Platform at the Little Potala Palace
 From then we toured three temples on the outskirts of Chengde, including Putuo Zongchengzhi temple (built in the style of the Potala Palace in Tibet), Xumi Fushou Temple, and Puning Temple (which contains a very very large wooden Buddha with a thousand arms and a thousand eyes. Actually each hand of each arm contains an eye, which I thought was interesting. No photos inside of course). At Puning Temple, I burned some incense in very awkward fashion. 
View from the bottom of the Red Platform at Little Potala Palace
Another view from the top of Puning Temple

Joe Package's Stewed Meat (lurou)
The restaurant that we went to for dinner that day had fantastic menu translations. We spent a while wondering who Joe Package was. 
"Mr Tat's Wing" We're
guessing he's friends with Joe Package
You can order "The Crabs"

We spent the next day wandering the Mountain Resort, which takes up an enormous part of the city. Apparently the emperors took all the flat ground in the otherwise mountainous area, walled it off, and over 90 years built a huge resort. The result was visually amazing the day we went, with the sun throwing off a dry heat over the many small lakes, buildings, and gardens. Needless to say I took a lot of pictures.


Spinning the water wheel.
 In the morning I visited a small shop selling name charms near a waterwheel. When we returned at the end of the day, despite my wearing sunglasses and this really peculiar rainbow paper hat, the salesman walked up to me and, pointing, said "I know you!" He was amazed that we had been there from 8AM to (eventually) 5:30PM, although I would say that one could definitely spend an entire day in the Mountain Resort.









The entrance fee was 120RMB, but although we had heard that student discounts wouldn't work, we managed to get in half-price anyway. I suppose the lesson is that it can't hurt to flash your Beijing Normal ID card (it's actually a lunch card) at all of these places.


A part of our group split off early and got a bit lost wandering huge, hilly forest that wraps around the main area, while my friend and I explored each island in sequence. In the afternoon, we regrouped, walked around some more, and ended the day with some boating around the lakes (unfortunately our motor boat had some weird engine issue and was quite slow).

Sometime during the day, a college professor from Chengde Normal University came up to us and asked us if we were foreigners. She was giving a survey about the state of Chengde's public toilets. Foreigners were unusually rare in the park that day. One of us asked how she'd known we were foreigners (most of us are Chinese American). "Did you hear us speaking English?" In the end it was our accented Chinese that gave it away - she thought I was Japanese.

All in all, it was heartwarming to see a teacher go to such lengths, apparently to satisfy the curiosity of her students, to find out what foreigners thought of Chengde's toilets - about their cleanliness, convenience, and artistic design. I actually think Chengde's toilets are pretty nice.
Older Chengde residents dancing downtown
Guinea pigs and a dwarf rabbit outside a pet store
We also visited the local beer garden for lamb barbecue of dubious origin. Aside from lamb we tried sugared bread, as well as BBQ cicada pupae (which has the texture of a shrimp shell on the outside and weird tofu on the inside).

Essentially what I wanted to get out of this long weekend were mountains, water, and history. (山,水,和历史). I'd say that Chengde meets these criteria without being too far away, and might be a good PIB midterm trip for those who'd prefer a relatively inexpensive trip and a relaxing break from the big city.

Cheers,
令鑫

Saturday, July 13, 2013

07-13-13 | Third Week in Review pt1: 798 Art District

It's finally happened. I'm sick. Not the usual kind of sick that everybody here gets involving a lot of time on the toilet, but the kind of coughy phlemmy sick that comes with a chronic headache and a desire to stay in bed and hand in tests without looking them over. (As a side note, I think the prevalence of stomach-related disturbances in China accounts for how liberally people talk about having diarrhea here. You 拉肚子, I 拉肚子,and pretty much everyone else).

I haven't been sick like this since the beginning of freshman year when our fencing coach informed us that sickness was a product of mental weakness. It's okay though; I'm drinking this Ginseng root dry mix thing.

Speaking of fencing, I don't think I've ever seen an ad like this. I think it's for a mechanical pencil?
Last week, we went to the 798 Art District in Beijing (north of Sanlitun) to view the galleries. Taking the bus there was a bit of a nightmare. First we lost Wen Si and then we found out we took the wrong bus. When we finally got to the place, it was nice although not as lively as I had imagined. Perhaps if we had walked through the entire complex...

Posing in front of the entrance. The thumb makes it artsy
798 used to be a (I think Soviet) factory
Some semi-traditional Chinese watercolor
 
Some street art

More semi-traditional art from the same gallery












I wish I had some pictures of this oil painter whose name I don't know. His work is essentially bright colors in large works with plenty of detail. This is hardly descriptive, but I remember a couple of paintings - one of America with every national symbol you could think of cramped into one painting (statue of liberty, bald eagles, the moon landing, the founding fathers, and the milky way galaxy in the background for some reason). There's a similar (larger) one of China.

The Silk Market
Afterward, we headed (by taxi this time) to the Silk Market, which is a multistory shopping mall that actually reminded me of the Galeries Lafayette in Paris, except everything is fake and everybody is trying to rip you off. The entire time, I wondered if foreigners actually bought things at the 10x markups they were being sold for.

I must admit I bought a few things there. When I got back, I think I gave Zhen laoshi the impression that I like spending loads of money... I personally think I'm pretty conservative in that respect.


Anyway, that was Sunday of the previous week. Everything else, including 3-day weekend planning, gorgeous Chinese menu translations, and freaking out waitresses will get put up at some point when I don't feel like dying.

Cheers,
令鑫









Saturday, July 6, 2013

07-06 | The Great Wall, Tienanmen, Beijing Opera House, and Marco Polo Bridge - Week Two In Review

Before I arrived in Beijing, I had assumed PIB was going to be devoid of any scheduled excursions or activities other than the 5 hours of class each day, but the scary warning in the PIB pamphlet (essentially, you will not have time for sightseeing) belies the multitude of things that go on here outside of the classroom (even more so if you're willing to do some planning). Apparently PIB is actually even better at HBA at scheduling speakers and things like that. These two weeks have seen 2 calligraphy lessons, an international affairs speaker, and a talk on Chinese art.

This week's Chinese table was ridiculous.
Somehow we ended up with so
much food that we couldn't fit it all on
one table, so in addition to all of
this there are two dishes
that are not pictured.
Here's that sushi restaurant I absolutely love for their
buy one get one free offer...


Our concert ticket. 

Obligatory picture with the Chairman

Some art at the Opera House

Some friends and I went to this place to bargain for
running shoes among other things. If you tell them you
come from America they'll double your prices.
If you don't look Chinese you'll probably want to ask
for a 50-60% discount to start... 



Rain.
Drinking milk tea at the Nanluoguxiang Hutong in Beijing


The Great Wall. It pretty much looks the same no matter
where you are, but since we went out into the
countryside, there were hardly any other people. 
As for excursions, we've visited the Great Wall, and today we toured a WWII museum as well as Lugouqiao (the Marco Polo Bridge). Afterward, we visited Tienanmen, took some pictures, and then watched an orchestra perform with traditional ethnic instruments at the Beijing Opera House. They played quite a few arrangements of western songs, including this one Russian piece that sounded exactly like the Tetris theme. 
Deng Laoshi (left) I cannot believe you did that :(
Marco Polo Bridge (Lugouqiao) The lions have been
repeatedly restored over the many years the bridge
has been in existence, so they're all different.
At the Marco Polo Bridge WWII museum. Some stories
don't get told enough. 
Posing with Traditional Beijing Yogurt as well as
Zhen Laoshi
PIB Yalies. The Beijing Opera House in the background
is colloquially called the "Birds Egg" for obvious reasons.
The entrance is underground, and all that water flows over
a clear ceiling. This we found out after walking around the
entire perimeter of the damn thing. 
They were very strict about taking cameras, but not cellphones.
It was really a great performance, especially the Tetris. 
The Light fellowship sends out email blog prompts every week, and the last two have been "what are your goals" and "what kinds of cultural missteps have you made." Language-wise, my current goal is increasing my vocabulary (which is not-so-great). Surprisingly I think I've gotten that speaking thing down all right. Personal goals include seeing more of Beijing, planning a day trip somewhere, and doing more of that 交流 thing. 



As for missteps, apparently half of the teachers here thought I had a lover in China. A got a tone wrong in one of my individual discussion sections, so "why I want to study Chinese" switched from "getting to know my relatives (qin1 ren2)  in China" to "getting to know my lover (qing2 ren2) in China." No wonder all the teachers were like, "that Ed Kong he's so liberal and open." 

In other news, I walked into a Subway the other day, and some kids from a Boston College exchange program or something saw my Tshirt, and started asking me with large eyes and slow English whether I went to Yale, to which I couldn't help but break the language pledge to tell them that I live in America and that English is my native language. The sad thing is that most Chinese people on the street assume I'm local, and when I can't read bus schedules they look at me really weird. On the other hand, I get slightly-less-outrageous pricing when bargaining. 

Anyway, it's 3AM and tomorrow we're going to the 798 Art District. 

Cheers,
孔令鑫